Small, quiet, uncomplicated–well, at least on the surface. That’s how Donsol in Sorsogon province seemed. Coconut trees rose above the concrete, and small fenced resorts lined up the coast, which, to anyone who didn’t know better, could easily look unremarkable.
And yet there were whalesharks underneath, fireflies by the river, and the promise of fiery sunsets every end of day. However, there were also beer bottles by the shore, a pulsating jellyfish left by the receding tide, and–we hope we are wrong–a severed tail of a thresher shark lying on the black sand along with a smattering of seaweed and plastic and even more discarded bottles.
For such a small place, it was quite a lot to take in for 24 hours, which also included a mind-numbing encounter with the world’s biggest fish. But what an experience all the same.