We got front seats in a non-airconditioned bus, and we had five-and-a-half hours more to go on the road. It was sweltering hot outside, and a throbbing pain in the head was threatening to ruin what remained of the afternoon and of our high spirits. Continue reading “Malapascua: A long way away”→
To be happy—that’s too complex to stereotype. We can perhaps agree though that it is quite easy to spot a happy moment when it’s staring back at you, difficult even to resist taking part in it.
Browsing through this year’s photos, we see beautiful sunsets and sunrises; we see turquoise seas and brown earth—for all these, we are thankful. But we also see people looking unequivocally happy doing everyday things—getting food, sitting under a tree, doing a day’s work. No uncomplicated I’m-going-on-an-adventure-today shiz.
This has been one of the best things about traveling to new places—it reminds us, time and again, that happiness comes in the simplest, most uncomplicated, and sometimes unexpected packages. To meet complete strangers and have them teach us this lesson on gratitude has been among the most incredible things about going out there, where, as Cesar Pavese said—
Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky
2013, it has been an amazingly happy journey.
All photos taken August 2013 in Malapascua, an island in northern Cebu province, Philippines, devastated by typhoon Haiyan.
We had one reason for visiting the town: to see the sardine run. At the end of two dives—one at Pescador Island and one at the reefs just off Panagsama Beach—we were left awestruck. It was, by far, one of the best dives we’ve ever had. It’s right up there with seeing such trophy creatures as the thresher shark in Malapascua, and lots and lots of sea turtles in Apo Island.
We would be spending three weeks in Cebu, yes, so we knew we would be visiting the town eventually. We just did not plan on doing it that soon.
We were inside a bus approaching Cebu City, having just come from a week-long stay in ATM-less thresher-shark-filled Malapascua Island. We only had P20 left in our pockets, which could carry us only as far as the nearest mall to replenish our funds. It was nearing dark, we had already been traveling for more than five hours, and we had psyched ourselves to collapse into sleep as soon as we arrived—which, until that moment, was supposed to be less than an hour away.
Apparently, that did not happen.
Somewhere along Mandaue before the bus could even reach the terminal, we decided that, yes, we would be going to Moalboal that same day. This meant another three hours on the road. But what the heck! We wanted to see the sardine run!
The town of Oslob straddles the open sea and the mountains of Cebu. The way to this seaside town is photogenic, especially in the early morning.
Apart from the whalesharks of Tan-awan, the Tumalog Falls and the Heritage Park are also usual stops. These three can be done in a single day, putting the whaleshark watching first, which takes just 30 minutes unless you give it another go and pay again, before the inland tour, which may take up another two or three hours of your time.
The water was crystal clear, the visibility wickedly great. And right in front, below, to the right and left, and finally, behind, are the world’s biggest fish. Four, five, six—it was useless to even count. And they didn’t look like they were going anywhere else.
We had a lot of reservations before finally taking the plunge—literally—to Monad Shoal in Malapascua, northern Cebu to see its thresher sharks.
This tiny island barangay is the only place in the entire world where sightings of this shark species are regular and gratification for those who make the trip is thus fairly guaranteed. But our lack of diving experience—and confidence in taking that plunge to Monad Shoal—was something we still had to deal with. The biggest creature we’ve seen in the few dives we’ve done before this was a meter-long sea turtle in Apo Island. That was definitely a far cry from a shark encounter. Once it had become clear though that we were allowed to dive if we really wanted to, we decided to give it a go. Continue reading “Diving with thresher sharks in Malapascua, Cebu”→
A Cebuana dressed as Reyna Juana dances around the streets of Cebu City during the Sinulog 2012 Carousel Parade.
Every January, the Philippines celebrates the Feast of the Sto. Nino (The Child Jesus) with processions and parades. Sinulog in Cebu province in the Visayas holds one of the biggest, capped off by a large-scale religious procession on the Saturday of the Sinulog Weekend and by a whole-day carousel parade the following day. Street parties follow the revelry and last until the wee hours of the morning.
This year, the Sinulog procession will be on the 19th, and the carousel parade on the 20th. Other festivals happening this January include the Feast of the Black Nazarene in Manila (January 9), Dinagyang in Iloilo City (January 26 & 27), and Ati-Atihan in Kalibo, Aklan (January 19 and 20).
Motorcycling around Bantayan Island in northern Cebu without a map—and street signs for that matter—brought us to this corner tucked away from the resorts. Around it are several other houses as well, most likely of expats (there is a lot of them in this island).